Colaba days

There is a sense of nostalgia that surrounds Mumbai, especially places like Colaba and Kala Ghoda. You almost rewind back in time to a century back. The massive granite clad facades are imposing, they are monumental – and they give off a feeling of old world charm. These facades have weathered many a storm. They have stood as mute witnesses while the city changed around them. They are also a silent testimonial to an age when sincerity to one’s work reigned supreme. They are the evidence of that. Even after the passage of over a century, they still stand tall and wise.

It is a pleasure to walk through the colonnaded arcades at night, in the yellow light of the sodium vapour  lamps. Here, light & shadow play a game of cat and mouse with the facades and the cobblestones of the footpath. The colonnades are deserted after the activities of the day, leaving you to enjoy the beauty of the night. There are ladies’ walking around, which is absolutely great considering that most of the other cities are not so safe for women.

The vada pav stalls are bustling. The vada pav, our desi version of the burger, has attained a cult following in Mumbai. It is the common man’s food; something so simple yet so filling and satisfying to the taste buds. The salted green chillies add the required touch of spice and at 5 bucks a piece is simply irresistible. I must confess that one day I skipped lunch to just gorge on vada pavs...

The Kala Ghoda area is lined by some really beautiful examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture – the High court, the David Sassoon library, Elphistone college, the Church etc. This area is one good example of heritage restoration happening India. The road from Kala Ghoda to Colaba is lined with some beautiful old buildings; buildings with a sense of history to them. It is an enjoyable walk, as all the senses are stimulated – the vendors with their brightly coloured wares, the bustling Colaba market which is forever busy, the strong smell of fish and sea as you walk past the harbour entrance, the fried aromas emanating from the roadside sea food stall and finally ending up at the Colaba post office junction with a couple of beautiful churches.

Regal cinema is just a short walking distance from the Kala Ghoda area. This area is one of the hotspots for tourists coming to Mumbai. The Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal hotel are a stone’s throw away from the Regal. The salty smell of the sea hangs in the air.  You turn left and walk past the granite rusticated facade of the Taj, focussing on the grey sea in front and suddenly after you round the corner, the majestic Gateway of India comes into view. The avenue here is full of people – tourists, foreigners, families, kids, pop corn sellers, photographers etc, all milling about on the footpath and the plaza in front. Even though the Gateway is the undoubted focus here, the facade of the Taj forms a majestic backdrop. Memories of a dastardly gunfight come flooding to your mind as you gaze upon the ornate facade and windows of the Taj – a day when we as a nation were held to ransom by terrorists. Yet we have prevailed and so has the grand old building, which stands proudly today after the renovation works. There are numerous boats moored to the sea wall, bobbing about on the gentle waves. Small ones, bigger barge like ones heading out to Elephanta caves and also quite a few luxury yatches; reminding one that Mumbai is after all the commercial capital of India.

The arcade along the Regal cinema towards Colaba market is lined with stalls offering everything from antiques to the hippest bangles, to shawls n dresses for the fashionestas to bags n what not – its a pure pleasure walk for the shopaholics; and an equally stimulating one for the rest. The infamous Cafe Leopold is along this axis, with its patrons spilling onto the walkway in front while waiting for seats in this new landmark...Colaba is a place where one finds the most fashion conscious crowd hanging out. Its hip here, its cool here and its happening...Mumbai rocks.