Great Indian Railway journeys - Delhi to Kerala on a Duronto express - a pictoblog!

Backpacking in India – Things to do

     India is a country that often overwhelms you – a place so beautiful and natural, yet growing at a rapid pace, only now coming to grips with globalisation and the facebook age. For most parts, it is still pristine and unspoilt. Yet, it is one of the most diverse country anywhere – people, customs, religions, food, climate...all vary from one place to another, yet, co-exist in the vibrant microcosm that is India.

    One of the most inspiring experiences is to travel throughout the length and the breadth of the country to witness the magic that is India, backpacking across the country to really immerse yourself in its culture. It is a journey that will be personally enriching. I have put down a list of things from my own journeys that may be helpful to other like-minded travellers. So here goes -

1.    First things first. Pack light. This is one of the cardinal rules while backpacking. There is no point burdening yourself with a heavy backpack. Carry only essential items. Plan your travels such that they are resource efficient, even in terms of clothes.

2.    Get a good map of the places you intend to visit. It should be small enough to be folded and carried in your pocket.

3.    Always try out the local cuisines and foods. And as far as possible, eat from the local eateries and hotels where the local people throng. Food is one of the best ways to discover a place and you will be able to strike up interesting conversations with the locals and in the process, often learn about interesting places & events to visit, which may not be on the tourist maps.

4.    People, especially local people are one of the most interesting aspects of travelling. Learn about them, talk to them to find out their ways of lives, customs, beliefs etc. You might even be lucky enough to be invited into a local home for a meal!!

5.    Before setting out, do a bit of research about your destination. Note down a few interesting places that you need to visit, tentative accomodation places etc. But keep your research basic. You tend to get better deals sniffing around the actual place.

6.    Try not to rigidly plan your itenary beforehand itself. Think and plan on your feet. There will always be certain places where you would want to spend more time and also those places, which might not be worth spending so much time. So its important that you are flexible enough in your plans.

7.    Always remember that it is not the number of places that you’ve been to that is important. Travelling is about the journey and not the destination, about your experiences, about discovery, about learning. It is also about discovering yourself. So travel with an open mind to experience the real India.

8.    Always keep some buffer time in your travel. Do not plan your travels such that the transport connections are too tight. If you miss one of your targeted transports, it may end up spoiling your entire trip. Also try to be early for all your journeys.

9.    Try travelling sleeper class in the trains as much as possible. Not only is it cheap, you get to meet a lot of interesting people and hear interesting stories. Only thing, book your tickets in advance.(train timings usually go haywire in winter in the northern part of the country due to fog. So if you are travelling during that time, be prepared for delays). Book all your tickets through the Indian railway's website http://www.irctc.co.in/. That way you can stay clear of travel agents. Also, always plan your travels during the night, as overnight journeys saves time and also the cost of accomodation!

10. Use public transport. There is nothing as interesting as a crowded vehicle with locals vying for space. Slightly uncomfortable maybe, but worth the experience.

11. For overnight accommodation, various options like youth hostels, dormitories etc are available almost all over the country. Getting a youth hostel membership is always a good idea, as it is valid all over the country.(http://www.yhaindia.org/memberships/). The facilities are usually decent and it is easy on the pocket too. If possible, try to stay with local families. This is a great way to learn of the local customs and people. Make sure though that your place of accommodation is centrally located, to avoid unnecessary hassles in travelling and wastage of time.

12. Always check out the facilities offered before you pay money and accept the accommodation, as often, what is promised may be different from what is offered.

13. If you are planning to travel to the north India during winter, make sure that your place of accommodation offers hot water.

14. Find out about the check in and checkout times beforehand itself and plan accordingly. Also, find out if there is a closing time in the night. You do not want to get caught out in the night (as it once happened to me and my friend  in a freezingly cold Chandigarh night)

15. Try to avoid autorickshaws as far as possible unless you really have to. One of the things that is surprisingly common all over India is the tendency of the rickshaw drivers to cheat and overcharge (all though this is not true always, and in all places. Mumbai is an exception).

16. If you need to get an auto or a cycle rickshaw from the railway station, always step out of the station first and get a vehicle. The rickshaw drivers in the station will certainly overcharge you.

17. Check out the weather forecasts in advance. Extreme climate is one of the major deterrents while travelling. There is no point if your plans go for a toss due to heavy rains, unbearable cold etc. That being said, weather in India is one of the most unpredictable entities. So dont be disappointed if you find yourself in the middle of a downpour when the forecast was for a clear day!

18. Choose your clothes according to the weather conditions. Loose ones for hotter climates and ofcourse heavy ones for the cold. A small towel is also a handy item.

19. A good cap is handy especially in warmer places.

20. Wear a comfortable pair of shoes or sandals. They must be hardy enough to put up with some good walking.

21. Always carry a good amount of water with you and keep yourself hydrated. Distilled water is available everywhere nowadays.

22. Walk as much as possible. It is one of the best ways to discover a place, to really get to discover it at your own pace.

23. Carry a few basic medicines like those for fever, indigestion etc.

24. Stay away from guided tours as far as possible.

25. Always try out the local tea. It varies across the country in very interesting ways.

26. Keep good care of your luggage while travelling. Do not discuss your plans in detail with strangers, especially on the train. Carry a metallic chain of around 2 feet length and a small lock. This can be used to secure your lugguage at night in the train. Be bold but try to travel safe. Avoid volatile situations; try not to get into arguments or fights. Always remember that you are the outsider here, but do not be pushed over by others. Be stern when you have to.

27. Always respect local customs and practices. You are the outsider and have to respect things even if it may not make sense to you.

28. Charge your mobiles and cameras as required. It is disappointing to find that your camera charge has died down in the middle of an exciting journey. Always carry your chargers with you and keep your batteries fully charged. Railways coaches do have charging points, but it is best not to totally rely on them alone.

29. Also ensure that there is adequate space in your camera for all your clicking. So download and free space inside your camera prior to starting out.

30. Try not to use your camera inside the train, if possible. If it is a day journey only, then you may use your camera. But if it involves night travel also, try to avoid showing your camera outside, as you never know if someone may try to steal it in the night.

31. Carry only the minimum amount of cash as required. ATMs are common all across the country and there is no point losing sleep over the cash in your pocket. But make sure that if you are going to visit places outside the city, you have adequate money to take you through and also something extra for emergencies. In cities, there are money exchange facilities for the foreign travellers.

32. Do not litter, damage or create nuisance in any of the places that you visit. Scribbling on the walls of the monuments is totally uncool.

33. Language might be an issue while you are travelling in India. For the northern part of the country, if you know even rudimentary Hindi, you will do fine. English may not be always understood. For the southern part, if you know English you will be all right. Hindi isn’t understood as much. Yet, the main thing to remember is that language isn’t a barrier if you really want to travel. We Indians are very good at understanding and expressing ourselves in signs and broken words.

34. Always ask and speak to local people for directions and help. You will be amazed to find the hospitality shown to travellers all over the country.

35.Buy only those souvenirs which will not be a hindrance to your travels. Also, always bargain, as we Indians love a good bargain.

36.There are some great out of the way places in India. Sure the common tourist attractions do have their own charm, but there are plenty of quiet, beautiful places away from the maddening crowds which are even more enchanting. So do check out them out for a really satisfying experience.

37.Finally, learn to let go. There will be lot of situations which will be beyond your control. Be prepared to take these in your stride; or else, you'll end up spoiling your time and not enjoying your trip. Travel with an open mind and rest assured; you wont be disappointed!!

Chettinadu

The first thing that comes to your mind when you think of Chettinadu is of course the famous Chettinadu Chicken; a dish that has taken the culinary world by storm. What most people aren’t aware is that the Chettinadu region is one of the most beautiful natural landscapes, with some of the most unique regional architectural styles present. We reached Karaikudi on a wet rainy morning after having started early from Madurai. The way is really picturesque, filled with green fields and trees on either side of winding narrow roads.

The heavy rain had reduced down to a drizzle by the time we reached Karaikudi. After weaving our way through the puddles filled road, we made our way to the centre of the town, where we were to meet the person who was to take us to his home. After downing a few cups of hot ‘chai’ from one of the roadside shops, we piled into an auto, to proceed to the house. The first thing that catches your eye is that the narrow lanes are lined on either side by residences which all follow a similar architectural language. It’s as though the whole place has been planned carefully with a very strict code of design and construction to be followed. What one must keep in mind is that the place was built over a 100 years earlier, when architectural building rules wouldnt have existed.

 The houses are pretty big by modern standards. All of them occupy the whole width between two parallel streets. The amazing thing about these structures is that all are built on plinths of over a meter in height. We soon arrive in front of a beautiful house. An arched entrance steps welcome us. There is a cosy sit out; a colonnaded verandah, decorated with the famous ‘Athangudi’ tiles. The interiors are huge; being organised around a central linear axis. Shafts of brilliant light enter through the glass openings in the mangalore tiled roof. It is dark and mysterious inside. There are huge wooden cylindrical pillars forming platforms and gathering spaces; spaces which were used in an age gone by. Today, the old lady who presently lives there laments the amount of time, energy and money required to maintain and take care of a house of this enormity.

The room opens up into a large colonnaded courtyard, which would have been the major social gathering space previously. You can almost imagine the ladies of the household sitting in the verandah around the courtyard, exchanging gossip while tying garlands of jasmine flowers. Children would have run around the pillars and enjoyed playing in the rains falling through the open sky above. Today, the courtyard is silent; silent with its memories and sounds of a bygone era.

The house is large – room after room, interspersed with courtyards. It is one of the longest houses that I’ve seen anywhere. The detailing done in the interiors and the facade are truly amazing. The balusters on the facade terrace, the decorations on the facade, all follow a very strict vocabulary across the entire community and town. It made me wonder about the social fabric of their society, about the strength of the architectural vocabulary which made it possible to be used across the region.

We soon boarded a bus to Chettinadu proper, where the palace of the king was located. Wet rice fields surround the road on either side, with dark grey ominous looking clouds hanging in the background. Giggly schoolchildren make their way home with their satchels hung over their shoulders, unmindful of the slight drizzle falling.

Soon, almost magically, the dark grey sky clears into a brilliant blue one with fluffy white clouds. Its almost as if the sky had gone to the dry cleaners and came back to reveal its pristine beauty. The area around the palace is again full of streets following the same unique architectural vocabulary. The palace is a simple white structure, not much different from the other houses. There is an idyllic temple with a temple pond directly across the palace, reflecting the dazzling blue sky. Yet, for all the beauty of the settlement, one feels sorry at the present state of affairs. The once beautiful and proud buildings now stand in various states of disrepair and neglect. The streets too are deserted, devoid of people. The sad thing about Karaikudi and Chettinadu is that the once wealthy families have over the years moved away slowly from this place, leaving it in the care of tenants. There is a small wayside stall selling sweets, indicating that there was life here after all.

After our wanderings, we entered into a small thatched roadside hotel serving food for the locals. The furnitures were basic, a few wooden tables and benches, set in a space with green coloured walls, with the smoky kitchen in the backside. There are the labourers from the feild having their lunch. Yet the ambience of the place and the aromas hanging in the air soon sets your mouth watering. The fare is simple – rice and chicken – authentic Chettinadu Chicken!! The flavours are strong and rich. It is hot, not meant for the weak at heart!! Yet, the dish is just too delicious for words. We had our fill, only wishing that we had more space in our stomachs!!

Colaba days

There is a sense of nostalgia that surrounds Mumbai, especially places like Colaba and Kala Ghoda. You almost rewind back in time to a century back. The massive granite clad facades are imposing, they are monumental – and they give off a feeling of old world charm. These facades have weathered many a storm. They have stood as mute witnesses while the city changed around them. They are also a silent testimonial to an age when sincerity to one’s work reigned supreme. They are the evidence of that. Even after the passage of over a century, they still stand tall and wise.

It is a pleasure to walk through the colonnaded arcades at night, in the yellow light of the sodium vapour  lamps. Here, light & shadow play a game of cat and mouse with the facades and the cobblestones of the footpath. The colonnades are deserted after the activities of the day, leaving you to enjoy the beauty of the night. There are ladies’ walking around, which is absolutely great considering that most of the other cities are not so safe for women.

The vada pav stalls are bustling. The vada pav, our desi version of the burger, has attained a cult following in Mumbai. It is the common man’s food; something so simple yet so filling and satisfying to the taste buds. The salted green chillies add the required touch of spice and at 5 bucks a piece is simply irresistible. I must confess that one day I skipped lunch to just gorge on vada pavs...

The Kala Ghoda area is lined by some really beautiful examples of Indo-Saracenic architecture – the High court, the David Sassoon library, Elphistone college, the Church etc. This area is one good example of heritage restoration happening India. The road from Kala Ghoda to Colaba is lined with some beautiful old buildings; buildings with a sense of history to them. It is an enjoyable walk, as all the senses are stimulated – the vendors with their brightly coloured wares, the bustling Colaba market which is forever busy, the strong smell of fish and sea as you walk past the harbour entrance, the fried aromas emanating from the roadside sea food stall and finally ending up at the Colaba post office junction with a couple of beautiful churches.

Regal cinema is just a short walking distance from the Kala Ghoda area. This area is one of the hotspots for tourists coming to Mumbai. The Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal hotel are a stone’s throw away from the Regal. The salty smell of the sea hangs in the air.  You turn left and walk past the granite rusticated facade of the Taj, focussing on the grey sea in front and suddenly after you round the corner, the majestic Gateway of India comes into view. The avenue here is full of people – tourists, foreigners, families, kids, pop corn sellers, photographers etc, all milling about on the footpath and the plaza in front. Even though the Gateway is the undoubted focus here, the facade of the Taj forms a majestic backdrop. Memories of a dastardly gunfight come flooding to your mind as you gaze upon the ornate facade and windows of the Taj – a day when we as a nation were held to ransom by terrorists. Yet we have prevailed and so has the grand old building, which stands proudly today after the renovation works. There are numerous boats moored to the sea wall, bobbing about on the gentle waves. Small ones, bigger barge like ones heading out to Elephanta caves and also quite a few luxury yatches; reminding one that Mumbai is after all the commercial capital of India.

The arcade along the Regal cinema towards Colaba market is lined with stalls offering everything from antiques to the hippest bangles, to shawls n dresses for the fashionestas to bags n what not – its a pure pleasure walk for the shopaholics; and an equally stimulating one for the rest. The infamous Cafe Leopold is along this axis, with its patrons spilling onto the walkway in front while waiting for seats in this new landmark...Colaba is a place where one finds the most fashion conscious crowd hanging out. Its hip here, its cool here and its happening...Mumbai rocks.